WINTER SAILING – CHRISTMAS IN PAXOS 

What a glorious feeling to be sailing on an empty sea. Not a single sailing boat to be seen. Where are all the other sailors ? Why is the Mediterranean so unpopular in winter ? Most people probably don’t enjoy this quiteness. They certainly prefer the crowded summer with all the fuss and activity. We have often been told by locals that summer is the best time of the year. Is that right ?

Here in Corfu, winter is, without a doubt, a very peacefull season. Harbours have plenty of space and anchorages are totaly deserted. Sometimes, a lonely fishing boat can be seen on the horizon with only company the flying seagulls behind it.

During this season, rainy days are very common in the western part of Greece and that is why the Ionian Islands are so green.  But after the depressions, the notherlies start blowing again and conditions are just perfect to go out sailing. Skies are cleared by the Tramontane gusting strongly under the snowy mountain summits. This wind drops the temperature, dries the air and generate a nice chilly atmosphere.

In December 2022, we decided to spent Christmas in Paxos, a small island lying 35 nautical miles south of Corfu. Before getting there, we did a stopover in Sivota for a night. It was like a ghost village. We had to walk in land to find the only taverna which would serve us something to eat.

The morning after, we left the port under a dark threatening sky. Thankfully, later on, a few sun rays appeared timidly on the water and the weather improved. The sea was completely empty, just for us. It was the best Christmas present we could ever dream of.

By midday, we entered Gaïos and found a spot to squeeze between some local boats. What a contrast with summer, when it is nearly impossible to find a berth in the main harbour.

Gaïos is a well sheltered fjord with a charming village at the end. Inevitably, it has become extremely popular and crowded the last two decades. This time of the year, the only audible sounds were the cries of the seagulls.

Although days are short in December, you can sometimes observe stunning sunrises and sunsets.

We spent a week on the island and met with some old friends. At night the warmness of our sleeping bags was well needed, but during the day we could still enjoy plenty of sunshine. Strolling around Paxos this time of the year is a unique experience: no sweating under a torrid sun, no pollution by the dozens of renting cars and very few people to be seen around.

After Christmas, the weather was still fine and we thought it was wise to head back home before the next depression arrived. We left in the early morning with a nice little breeze coming from the mainland. This time we didn’t stop anywhere and went straight back to Corfu.  Full main up and the genoa completely unrolled, we were doing 3 to 4 knots on a smooth sea. Just the perfect conditions.

Sailing around the Ionian islands is for most sailors a summer activity. But as we discovered, winter sailing can also be very enjoyable. For us, sleepy ports, empty horizons and cooler temperatures proved to be a delightful combination.

And when the sun went down, we were happy to put the kettle on, light on our paraffin lamp and enjoy a cozy atmosphere on board.